Edinburgh History - Hutchison & Chesser

George T Smith

1940s

Thank you to George T Smith, now living in British Columbia, Canada, for sending these recollections of the time he spent in the Hutchison and Chesser districts of Edinburgh in the 1940s.

George's memories include:

Hutchison Road

"From the age of 6, I lived in Hutchison Road which was a source of wonder to me as there were:

- railway trains passing slowly towards the cattle market sidings, some containing livestock, others troops

- a view of Corstorphine Hill

- in the middle view the trees of Saughton park with a mysterious turreted house in it, rumoured by my school mates to be haunted.

The street had some claim to fame as at the east end, at the bottom of Moat Drive, was ‘the field’ across which we tramped daily as a short-cut to Craiglockhart school.

The field had been the site for one week, early in the century, of Buffalo Bill Cody’s 'Wild West Show' to which special trains were run from the Waverley."

Corporation Housing

"The housing scheme was a product of a late-twenties building expansion of Corporation housing.

It was formed of blocks of three story flats (ground floor and two upper floors) each ‘stair’ consisting of six two bedroomed flats, heated by a coal fire in the living room and, for the more affluent the option of using of gas fires in the bedrooms – usually when kids were sick."

Manclark & Son

"Moving west: at the junction of Hutchison Causeway was the factory of Manclark & Son, uniform manufacturers. It seemed staffed by girls from the Calders."

The Pipe Field

"Next was a ‘pipe field’ a depot for water department pipes of all sizes including one or two ancient wooden ones.

As kids do, we climbed the fence and rooted around and met with the night watchman who delighted in story- telling though mystifying us 8-year-olds with tales of Thomas Paine and 'The Rights of Man."

Laundry

"Adjoining the field was the remains of the old Gorgie Farm which was run as a laundry, Hillview Laundry’ I believe."

Lemonade Factory

"Next came a small lemonade factory which distributed lemonade in small globular bottles, sometimes used in our mock battles as grenades, though more usually carefully collected for the deposit refunds which we squandered on ‘Vantas’ at one of the small shops in the little circular shopping area in Hutchison Avenue.

Hudson Terraplane

Recent references to the Hudson Terraplane reminded me that the owner of the lemonade factory owned such a vehicle. It was an object of curiosity to us small boys just after the war when private cars were few and big US imports even fewer. I suspect it was a pre-war vehicle and it sure was big compared to our Austin Seven."

Shops

"Useful shops at Hutchison Medway were:

- the paper shop

- vegetable (and Vantas ) shop

- sweet shop

- hairdresser

- a sub post office cum lending library

- Sutherlands, the butcher shop.

- a 'standby' a Fish & Chip shop

- a couple more useful stores."

Co-op Firewood Factory

"One now out-dated oddity was the Co-op firewood factory. Here, logs were split into bunches of kindling which were wired up and sold at the ‘Store’.

Its death knell must have been the Clean Air Act of 1956."

Co-op Laundry

"Finally there came the large Co-Op laundry (now, I believe, a supermarket).

It handled ‘bagwash’ and and returned it a few days later in a brown paper parcel of carefully washed, dried, ironed and folded fresh smelling clothing etc."

'Dig for Victory'

"The co-op operated both motor and horse-drawn vehicles, the latter providing valuable nutrient to our ‘Dig for Victory’ vegetable plots which we loyally dug in the back greens during the war years.

These same backgreens were also our venue for ‘backgreen concerts’ where our very amateur efforts raised sixpences for the 'Spitfire Fund' and other charities."

Cattle Market

"The cattle market and abattoir was a source of holiday education where we looked in on the auctions and listened to rapid fire auctions for sheep and cattle.

Frequently the livestock were herded along our road towards the market and, occasionally, a cow would balk and return at a run from the market direction pursued by a irate herdsman and, on one occasion, disrupting a game of rounders.

Then it was still possible – few private cars and petrol rationing – for children to play in the street."

Chesser Avenue

"The markets also included places barred to kids such as the Corn Exchange and The Gothenburg, a pub.

The enclosure on Chesser Avenue, where sheep were often kept for a few days, was also the site of some sort of Highland Games where I recollect some sweating brawny policemen heaving 56 lb weights over what seemed an impossibly high bar."

Further Afield

"Our playgrounds were the streets and backgreens.

But as we grew older we went further afield to such as:

- the Union Canal

- Hailes Quarry, then 100 feet deep and filled to some 40 feet with spring water

- Craiglockhart

- Colinton Dells."

Hutchison Vale FC

"Hutchison had some sporting connection too. A football team ‘Hutchison Vale’ was initiated there by a Mrs Bryson whose son I believe became a professional footballer goalkeeper.

Memory says he played for Hibernian but with Hearts just down the road …….. I wonder?"

George T Smith, Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
August 23, 2006 and October 3, 2006

Further Recollections

George T Smith

1940s

Thank you to George T Smith, British Columbia, Canada, for sending me further recollections of his life in the Hutchison and Chesser districts of Edinburgh.

George wrote:

Hutchison Road - Neighbours

"Having looked at the Dumbiedykes recollections I was struck by the similarities to my own recollections of my childhood home. The names I remember are only those of families who had children of roughly the same age as myself.

Looking back, despite playing in largely traffic free streets my social circle was limited to only a few adjoining blocks of flats. Starting west to east:

20 Hutchison Road

- 14: Steele sisters, Catherine and Margaret Scott

- 16: Alan and Rhoda Fraser, Pat and George Dixon

- 18: Ian Inglis

- 20: Smith family (me, Gordon, Allan and Kenneth)

Fraser family, Betty and Margaret Cameron

June Young

Liddel family

- 22: Jimmy Dalgleish - a pall of the Herbertson Bros
mentioned in relation to Edinburgh dancehalls.

Herbertson Bros

I think some of the houses may have since been re-numbered.

Beyond this narrow field was Harry Sutherland in Hutchison Avenue in whose house we had ’Group Teaching’ during the early days of World War II."

Cars

"There is mention elsewhere of the rare cars in the street. That reminds me that, although few were parked there, one young blade in No 24 Hutchison Road had an aluminium Morgan 3 wheeler with a JAP V twin air cooled engine."

School Dinners

"I am struck by how healthy we were despite rationing.

School dinners were prepared at a central kitchen, one of which was in a converted church in Fountainbridge. Delivered in insulated containers, these meals were served up in the gymnasia (at Boroughmuir) by ‘Dinner Ladies’. The collapsible tables were erected by the pupils in the last class for PT before lunch break.

The meal was usually meat ,potatoes and two vegetables followed by a dessert (puddin’ in Edinburgh vernacular) composed of a slice of steamed pudding and custard. These meals cost 4 pennies per day and were free to kids from homes on welfare support.

Morning Milk

Morning milk was supplied too at Junior School. I cannot recollect if Secondary Schools also got that.

At Craiglockhart, we each got one third of a pint each day for, I think, 1/2 penny per day (free to some). It was an honour to be selected Milk Monitor and to be allowed to pierce the bottle tops with the little sharp prodder - never cleaned to my recollection. No Safe Food regulations then?

World War II - Air Raids

"The Clydebank raids were scary enough. We glimpsed the searchlights and flak bursts from the safety of our Anderson shelters, dug into the back greens.

The following morning we searched for shell fragments as souvenirs and found a few. I wonder how many casualties resulted from spectators and ‘firewatchers’ being struck by fragments from anti-aircraft shell bursts? Nose cones and base plates from the 3.7 shells often landed intact and they weighed several ounces."

George T Smith, Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
March 26, 2007

Harry Sutherland

1940s

Thank you to George T Smith, British Columbia for sending the excerpt below - and thank you to Harry Sutherland, Hutchison Road, Edinburgh for the comments that I have quoted below.

George wrote:

Hutchison Road

"One of your correspondents from USA was an ex-Manclarks seamstress from the Calders.

Below, I have copied a piece from a recent e-mail from Harry Sutherland at whose house I was 'Group Taught' in 1939.

Harry still lives in the house and is active in the local community association."

The excerpt is......

Hutchison Road

'Coming along Hutchison Road from Chesser Avenue where the old Coop Laundry was, they built an ASDA store which at this very moment they are pulling down for more flats to be built.

Where the Hill View Laundry was, is also part of the scene. Then we have 10 little workshop units for small firms.

The Pipe field now has the Barratt Flats right along to my corner at Hutchison Crossway.

They were all built about 20 year ago after Manclarks burnt down. A very spectacular fire, it was.

That was when they put a 'one' in front of the street numbers to fit the new stairs in to the street numbering system.'

Harry Sutherland, Hutchison, Edinburgh

George T Smith: April 18, 2007

William Sinclair

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Thank you to William Sinclair, now living in Ontario, Canada, who wrote:

Hutchison Medway

"I lived all my life until I was married in 14 Hutchison Medway.

My older sister Barbara lives in Blackhall and my young brother, George lives at Huchi View.

I am a piper. I got my start at the 67 Boys' Brigade, St. Aiden's, Stenhouse. I have been in the Toronto area of Canada since 1967."

See also comments from Ken Smith in 5 below - Peter Stubbs

Neighbours

"I did not know George Smith or to many families on that side of the Hutchison Road, but to the west of Hutchison Place I knew just about everyone.

I remember Billy Porteous from No 12, The Medway, one of your contributors now living in Australia.

Tynecastle Flying Club

The paper shop was Meiklejohns. George Meiklejohn and I flew pigeons as 'Meiklejohn & Sinclair' in the Tynecastle Flying Club. I was known then as Billy.

Hibs Footballers

Bruce, the son of Ma Bryson (as she was called) was a forward. Tommy Younger who was Hibs and Scotland goalie. Billy Macfarlane, also from Hutchi Vale, became Manager at Easter Road.

William Sinclair, Toronto area, Ontario, Canada April 17, 2007

4 (ctd)

William Sinclair

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

William Sinclair sent these further recollections of the Hutchison area, a few days later.

Hutchison Circle

Here's more about the shops in what we called the Hutchison Circle.

In the center of the circle there were two semi-circles of grass with shrub areas, surrounded by a low iron fence and a paved path down the middle. 'NO FOOTBALL ALLOWED'

Shops - SE Corner

First was Meiklejohns (paper shop) It also sold bread & morning rolls.

Next door was Mrs Wilson's (green grocers).

Then Mrs Lawsons ('sweetie shop' and the penny Vantas, no Coke back then)

Next door was a hairdresser

Shops - SW Corner

First was Bradley's( post office).

Next door was Nellie Sutherland (grocers).

Shops - NW Corner

First was a drysalters.

Next door was Joe Hewets (fish & chips) We didn't go there on a Friday lunch time as the girls from Manclarks were there then.

Shops - NE Corner

First was a bakers. Next door was Lawrie's (the fish monger).

William Sinclair, Toronto area, Ontario, Canada April 23, 2007

George Ferguson

Saginaw, Michigan, USA

Thank you to George Ferguson who wrote:

Hutchison Road

"I was looking at your wonderful pictures of Edinburgh and came across this view of Hutchison Road.

To answer Mr. George Smith's question, 'I guess the new flats on the left hand site are on the old Manclark's site'.

My Mum worked at Manclark's for years and I remember we always used to go to the corner of Hutchie Road and Hutchie Crossway to meet her getting out of work at 4pm.

Yes Mr. Smith is correct, my wee sister later bought one of those houses to be near my Mum who passed away in the same house I was born in. I was born in 1956 and lived at 30 Hutchison Road from day one until I joined the Army in 1973.

After I left the Army I emigrated to the United States and have been here since then."

Play

"I was home last about 6 years ago for a visit and I was kind of sad to see all the changes, there is just nowhere for the bairns to play any more.

When I was growing up, behind our house we had a place we called the garages because there were a couple of rows of garage lock-ups, but the best part was that there was a large field with really tall grass and hedgerows where we used to play Japs and Commandos and Hide and Seek.

Unfortunately, the fields have gone. There are now about eight to ten houses where the fields used to be."

Cattle Cars

"Just around the corner, there was the railway line to the cattle market which is now a road leading to a fruit market, I believe. Over the railway line were they used to park the empty cattle cars, there was a bridge

The cattle cars were sometimes full of straw and we used to go along all the cattle cars (one person keeping an eye out for the railway police) and collect all the straw and put it all in the one car directly below the bridge and then jump from the bridge into the straw below.

My Mother once caught us doing this and just about had a fit. Boy, did I get my backside tanned for that one. Still, it didn't deter me. We were back the next day doing it again."

Pony Field

"Right next to the bridge was a field we used to call the Pony Field. It did actually have ponies in it at one time. I remember feeding them as a boy, though I'm not sure who they belonged to.

Later, when the ponies left, we used the field for playing football, and for sledging in the winter when there was snow as the field had a small hill at the end of it."

Cattle Market

"After the railway line was closed down it became just another play area for us. We used to play on the old line all the way up to the cattle market.

On Tuesdays and Wednesdays we would go to the cattle market. Tuesdays were always sheep and cattle selling days and Wednesdays were pig selling days.

We would go along and watch the sheep and pigs being unloaded for sale and then go into the auctions themselves.

There used to be two auction rings in the Swan building, connected by a swing door. In one ring they would be selling sheep and through the door in the second ring would be the cattle auctions.

For years as a boy I used to think the auctioneers were talking in code to confuse us kids and the only ones who could understand the code were other grown-ups."

Neighbours

"Hutchison Road wasn't a bad place to grow up. Everybody knew all their neighbors back then, but on my last visit it seemed to lack the warmth we in those days - a sign of the times, I guess.

I sometimes long for home. As the old saying goes, 'You can take the boy out of Scotland but you can't take Scotland out of the boy'."

George Ferguson, Saginaw, Michigan, USA: September 20, 2007

Betty McGill (nee Harvey)

Edinburgh

Thank you to Betty McGill (nee Harvey) who wrote:

Hutchison Road

"I am completely captivated re all the life stories about living in Hutchison Road. I was brought up in No 36, Hutchison Road. My maiden name is Betty Harvey."

Neighbours

"As a child, I remember:

- George Ferguson and all his family . They would know all my family too.

- Billy Mcfarlane who just lived what we called 'down the key' !!! in Hutchison road.

I know of Harry Sutherland. He is related to my daughter-in-law, May, who with my son and family now live in America - so 'Hello Harry'."

Cattle

"I, too, used to watch the cattle being auctioned when I was just a child, all gone now and houses being built everywhere."

Soldiers

"I used to also watch the soldiers marching to the pipe band on the way to the trains at the back of the Laundry, off to war !!! We always waved to them !!!!! "

Betty McGill (nee Harvey), Edinburgh: December 27, 2007

Maureen Carroll Luciano

USA

Thank you to Maureen Lucano who wrote:

Hutchison Medway

"I've just finished reading William Sinclair's memories (4 above). Oh my! Did it bring back some wonderful memories! William was my neighbour at No.14 Hutchison Medway.

You can understand why I got so excited reading this. All the places that William mentioned we played in, the stick factory, the pipe factory, the lemonade factory. We would climb onto the roof (fearless) at the top of Chesser Avenue."

Hutchison Place

"I also stayed in No.5 Hutchison Place, and rode my bike round and round the circle. We stayed up above Lawrie's Fish Shop and Mrs Dunnet the bakers. Joe Hewitt was my favourite at the Fish and Chip Shop. He would make sure I got extra batter off the fish in my order."

Brian

"Brian, my young brother, knew everyone in Hutchison. He was a lovely young boy. Unfortunately, he passed away suddenly 2004. I mention Brian because he was mentally handicapped and everyone was so kind to him in Hutchison."

Around Hutchison

"I remember:

- Backgreen concerts in Hutchison Road, a penny to get in, the neighbours would give us old clothes to dress up in.

- The Roley Poley Hill and the Cattle Market.

- Further up to the river, where someone had tied a heavy rope and a rubber tire. We would swing across the river.

- Redhall Park and the school playing field at Redhall.

- Saughton Park where we wondered if we should try to go into the HAUNTED HOUSE. No we did not. It was off limits.

- Medway Swing Park behind our house at Hutchison Medway. We used to have Guy Fox night there with a Bonfire on 5th November."

So many good memories. We did not have to go far afield to enjoy ourselves."

Emigration to USA

"We moved to No.5 Hutchison Ave, ground floor with a garden. My parents were elderly then and could not climb the stairs at No.14. When they passed it was the end of an era, I sold the house.

I have lived in the States since 1965, so my time in Hutchison was from 1942 to 1965."

Maureen Carroll Luciano, USA: February 6, 2008