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Newhaven

Old Chain Pier

Photograph from Edinburgh Calotype Album  -  Volume 2, Page 95  -  Chain Pier ©

Please scroll down this page to read:

A.  History

B.  Recollections

 

 A.

History

Old Chain Pier Bar

1.

Early History    from 1821
2. Old Chain Pier Bar   from 1940s

3.

Fire and Restoration   from 2004

4.

Closed Again   from 2011

5.

To Open Again   from 2012

A.1

Early History

Sailings

The Old Chain Pier, between Granton and Newhaven harbours was formerly known as Newhaven Chain Pier.  It was used by steamers giving pleasure trips in the Firth of Forth, but was destroyed in a storm in the 19th century.

The pier with its three spans extended 700 ft into the Firth of Forth.  It was built in 1821 and was used by steamers giving pleasure trips in the Firth of Forth.

Swimming

After the steamers had stopped using the pier, it became a centre for sea bathing.  Some railway advertisements referred to early morning trains to Trinity for sea bathing. 

Swimming competitions were held from the pier and the building at the end was used a s a gymnasium  [Gutrhrie Hutton: 'Old Leith' published by Richard Stenlake]]

Storm

The pier was badly damaged in a storm that lasted for four days, beginning on 15 October 1898.  When the storm abated only the central support, bathing station at the end of the pier and the booking office were left standing.

Damage was estimated at £500.  The pier was never rebuilt.

Old Chain Bar

The Old Chain Pier booking office is still standing.  It is now the 'Old Chain Pier' bar, situated in Trinity Crescent, overlooking the Firth of Forth.  It has a restaurant conservatory attached  -  but see below!

Acknowledgement:  Thank you to Gutrhrie Hutton for comments on the swimming competitions and the storm that damaged the pier.  These comments are taken from his book 'Old Leith' published by Richard Stenlake, 1995.

 

A.2

Old Chain Pier Bar

The Pub

Postcard  -  Looking along Starbank Road towards Trinity Crescent ©

The original Booking Office, built in 1821, was converted into a pub after the Second World War.  The building is immediately behind the large telegraph pole in the postcard above.  The Firth of Forth is just over the wall on the right of the picture

The Evening News reports that the pub

"... gained notoriety due to the eccentric behaviour of former publican, Betty Moss, who wore bamboo framed spectacles and reputedly called time by firing a starting pistol and brandishing a sword. 

She festooned the pub with mementoes, including shrunken heads, and it became one of the most atmospheric in Scotland."

Edinburgh Evening News, 29 April 2004, p.5

More recently, a conservatory has been added to the pub.  Both the original building and the conservatory overlook the Firth of Forth.

 

A.3

Fire and Restoration

 Fire - 2004

     The Old Chain Pier with its roof removed following a fire  - wide angle view from the west, June 2004 ©

I was shocked to discover that the Old Chain Pier Bar was gutted by fire yesterday morning.  The fire is believed to have been started by an electrical fault.

The roof of the old building (the original ticket office, built for the pier in 1821) has been destroyed and the inside of the building has been blackened with the loss of many old pictures.

The new conservatory beside the pub has survived, but it is not clear yet what will be the fate of the original building.

Restoration - 2004

     The Old Chain Pier with new roof following a fire  - view from the east, July 2004 ©

Work began on restoration of the Old Chain Pier bar during summer 2004.  The photograph above was taken on 9 July 2004.  The pier, with a new roof and newly refurbished interior re-opened in mid-November 2004.

A.4

Closed Again

September 2011

I was surprised to receive a message from Edith Johnston, Edinburgh, on September 8, 2011, telling me that the Old Chain Pier had closed again.

After reading Edith's message, I drove past the Old Chain Pier again on September 9 and it looked a sorry site.  All the windows in the pub and its conservatory had been boarded up, and there was a sign on the door advertising for a new Manager to run the pub.

Peter Stubbs:  September 14, 2011

A.5

To Open Again

May 2012

I'm pleased to say that The Old Chain Pier appears to have found a new owner.  I've seen activity both outside and inside the building over the past month.  It now has a new coat of paint and smart signs and appears to be being refurbished inside, so we may see it open again soon.

Peter Stubbs, Edinburgh:  May 1 2012

Update

May 2012

I visited the Old Chain Pier today to see how the refurbishment was progressing, and was told that they hope to re-open next Monday, 7 May Wednesday or Thursday 9 or 10 May, 2012

Peter Stubbs, Edinburgh:  May 3 2012

 

 B.

Recollections

Old Chain Pier Bar

1.

Mike Jarron
East Lothian

Betty Moss

2.

Geoff Bonney
South Africa

+ Question

+ Answers

Betty Moss

The Bar

Clients

Argument

Return Visit

3.

John White
Edinburgh

Betty Moss

4.

Donald Grant
Penicuik, Midlothian, Scotland

Sunset over the Gasworks

O'Rourke Family

5.

Jack Craig
Silverknowes, Edinburgh

Today

6.

Stephen Paterson-Fife
Singapore

Betty Moss

O'Rourkes

'Lock-in'

'Working Girls'

7.

Rab Duncanson
Sunbury, Victoria, Australia

Betty Moss

8.

Jim Gentle
Aberdeenshire

1960s

Beer

Betty Moss

9.

David King
Trinity, Edinburgh

History

10.

Harry Hunter
Fife, Scotland

Gallery over the Sea

Gents

11.

Trish Lack
Haddington, East Lothian, Scotland

Betty Moss

12.

Allan Dodds
Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, England

Betty Moss

13.

Douglas Bryce
Pilton, Edinburgh

Jeff

14.

Steve Aitken

Barman

Betty Moss

Cellar

 

  Recollections

1.

Mike Jarron

East Lothian

Betty Moss

Thank you to Mike Jarron, East Lothian who wrote:

"There are a lot of reminiscences about the Old Chain Pier Bar in Betty Moss's day. eg the time she went storming into the gents' waving her cutlass to sort out a disturbance."

Mike Jarron, East Lothian:  January 30, 2007

 

Recollections

2.

Geoff Bonney

South Africa

Thank you to Geoff Bonney, originally from Hexham, Northumberland, and now living in South Africa, for sending his memories of Betty Moss at the Old Chain Pier in the 1960s.

Geoff wrote:

Betty Moss

"I have a vivid recollection of Betty Moss from a visit in the 1960s.  She was a little spelk of a woman in a brightly coloured kimono, with a gold chain belt, those fancy glasses, & ear-rings dangling onto her shoulders; curly gingery hair, so sparse one could see through to her scalp, eye-brows just painted on with eye-brow pencil, but what a character!

The Bar

"The bar was adorned with an incredible array of memorabilia, from shrunken heads with a variety of weapons and tankards, to loads of business cards and old-style humorous, seaside resort post-cards."

Clients

"I was with friends at a table facing the bar.  Next to me was an attractive, but rather tarty, young blonde; beside her a dapper little man in a business suit. Two young fellows, evidently dockers, came in & went to the bar. Not long after they’d been served the young blonde got up, went over, and started talking to one, a handsome young chap."

Argument

"Suddenly she hung a whacking roundhouse on his jaw, at which, to our amazement, he burst into tears & ran around to the back of the bar. She then picked up his pint & threw it at him. At this Betty picked up a cutlass & chased the blonde out of the pub, locking the door."

It was pouring with rain.  Loud shouting ensued and we could see a high-heeled shoe being brandished above the frosted glass lower-half of the front window. The row subsided after a time and I noticed the young woman’s hand-bag was still on the seat near me. I pointed this out to the little man, still sitting there, and said I wondered if anyone in the pub knew her and where she lived. He said ‘It’s alright. I know her - I’m her husband!’ A while later Betty unlocked the door and we were able to leave.

Driving back along the road we saw the soaking wet young woman, lying in the porch of one of the houses opposite, with her husband comforting her."

Return Visit?

"Sadly, I’ve never had the opportunity to visit The Old Chain Pier pub again, but I’ll never forget it!

I wonder, does anyone know when Betty died and at what age?"

Geoff Bonney, South Africa:  January 11, 2008

 

Question

1960s

David Wylie, Edinburgh, writes:

 "I'm looking for some information regarding the Old Chain Pier.  I have been informed by several people that in the late 1960's people were able to walk out over the pier where there was a small bar at the end of the it.

However I have been unable to find any information on this, are you able to help me?

David Wylie, Edinburgh:  April 3, 2008

Comment

1960s

From the photos and postcards that I have seen of the old pier, it appears that little or nothing was left of it, following the storm in the late 19th century.  The Old Chain Pier Bar is still in business.  It still stands at the end of the old pier, but it is at the southern end of the pier where the pier met the land.

However it is interesting that several people have mentioned walking out over the pier in the late 1960s, so perhaps a short length of pier, close to the land, did survive until then.

Please email me if you  know anything about this.

Thank you.    -  Peter Stubbs,  April 3, 2008

Answer 1

Within three hours of adding the question above to the web site, I received a reply from Francis Wilson.  Thank you Francis.

Francis wrote:

Balcony

"When Betty Moss owned the Old Chain Pier Bar in the mid- '60s the bar was along the seaward wall.  When you entered from the west side there was a passageway on your left before reaching the bar this led to the toilets and on to a rickety balcony overhanging the Forth.

The wooden flooring were spars with gaps of an inch between the spars.  Thank goodness their was no £1 pound coinage then.  

The structure had seen better day.  It wasn't for the faint hearted.  That's what your reader must be alluding to.

This is my first reply to any website so hope this is helpful."

Francis Wilson:  April 3, 2008

Thanks Francis.  That's helpful.  And your reply is confirmed by message from Ian Taylor, below, which reached me a few hours later, before I'd added your message to the web site.

Answer 2

Ian Taylor, now living in South Glasgow, wrote:

Drinks

"I visited the Old Chain Pier in the mid-'60s, as a quarter of a foursome.  We ordered 2 pints of beer, a gin and tonic and a white wine and soda.

I think the latter two drinks were a bit poncy for Betty and we finished up with 2 pints of beer and 2 halves of lager!

In those days you could go through a door at the back of the pub on to a sort of veranda over the water, in which many glasses were visible, obviously chucked there in high spirits.

How Betty could keep up with this, I don't know.  Perhaps the poncy drinks weren't available because she had no suitable glasses left!"

Ian Taylor, South Glasgow:  April 4, 2008

Answer 3

Thank you to Frank Ferri who replied

Pub Balcony

"The pub did have a little balcony/veranda at back overlooking the sea, but it never ever had a bar there, only the main interior bar  -  except possibly in the 1800s as a ferry point, before the pier was blown away"

Frank Ferri, Newhaven:  May 2, 2012

Recollections

3.

John Wright

Edinburgh

Thank you to John Wright for leaving this message in the EdinPhoto Guest Book.

John wrote:

Betty Moss

"I went to Betty Moss's once with my mate, Norrie Bews.  He was a character and I'm sure Betty's suited him right down to the ground.

I had been pre-warned by him, but thankfully there were no shenanigans that night.  Norrie died at a young age and I think of him often.

John Wright, Edinburgh:  June 7, 2008

Recollections

4.

Donald Grant

Penicuik, Midlothian, Scotland

Thank you to Donald Grant for sending me his recollections of drinking in the Old Chain Pier (below) and in The Starbank.

Donald wrote:

Sunset over the Gasworks

"I found all the stories of 'The Chain' as we called it, and it brought back some memories. I well remember the old rickety balcony out the back and spent many summer evenings out there with friends watching the sunset over the gasworks.  Very picturesque !!

It was common to see seals swimming around in the water as well as plenty rather unpleasant items floating around as a result of the antiquated sewage system that was still being used for the city."

O'Rourke Family

"By the time we started drinking there (roughly 1970) Betty had gone, and the pub was owned by a family named O'Rourke who we were led to believe were related to Jimmy O'Rourke who played for Hibs at the time.

I remember that on one occasion they thought they would try a new beer and got a supply of Watney's Red Barrel in.  A few of us gave it a try but decided it was pretty awful stuff.

I don't think it lasted more than a couple of days before disappearing never to be seen again.

It was always a friendly pub when we were there and was reasonably busy no matter what night of the week you were there, which in our case was most nights!"

Donald Grant, Penicuik, Midlothian, Scotland

 

Recollections

5.

Jack Craig

Silverknowes, Edinburgh

Thank you to James Craig who wrote:

Today

"The Old Chain Pier Inn has changed quite a bit. It has been enlarged to its commercial advantage, but maybe not to its character.

It used to be tiny.  I can remember ordering a drink and a pie from the stout lady, who I think owned the place. I got the drink, and the pie was slapped on the counter!

It was worth the visit."

Jack Craig, Silverknowes, Edinburgh:  August 25, 2008

Recollections

6.

Stephen Paterson-Fyfe

Singapore

Thank you to Stephen Paterson-Fyfe for posting a message about the Old Chain Pier in the EdinPhoto Guest Book.

Stephen wrote:

Betty Moss

"I remember the Old Chain Pier very well.  I was taken once, as a kid, with my parents to say hello to Betty Moss.

O'Rourkes

"In the early 1970s, I used to go a lot to the pub - in the days of the O'Rourkes?  Although Betty had gone there was still a lot of atmosphere, and the balcony over the river."

'Lock-in'

"I remember one night a guy left, closed the door behind him and took the handle out of the door (by mistake) leaving the rest of us stuck in the pub for a few hours until a locksmith came and let us all out."

'Working Girls'

"There were also various 'working girls' who were locals. They were not so much girls as old pros, with hair in beehive style and black lace dresses."

Stephen Paterson-Fyfe, Singapore (formerly Edinburgh and Fife)
 Message posted in EdinPhoto Guest Book, September 22, 2008

Recollections

7.

Rab Duncanson

Sunbury, Victoria, Australia

Thank you to Rab Duncanson, formerly of Redbraes Place and now living in Australia, who wrote:

Thursday Nights

"I used to drink at Betty's on Thursday nights in the late-1960s with:

-  John Wright  (3 above).
  I worked beside him at Ferranti's and played fitbae wi' him.

-  Joe Exley

-  Peter Johnsone

-  Norrie Bews

Betty Moss

"Betty lived on the other side of the street.  A taxi used to pick her up, do a U-turn and out she would get.

She brandished a cutlass and a starting pistol at closing time and sometimes an old football rackety thing that she would wave round her head."

Beer

"Betty served possibly the worst draught beer in Edinburgh or Leith. If you were a regular, you only drank bottled beer.  The rumour was that you couldn't get a pint if the tide was oot.

No matter what you asked for, draught, lager, Extra, you got the same luke warm light beer."

Whisky

"I remember standing beside two young American sailors one night who, after a mouthful of the ill-tasting brew, decided to sample whisky instead.

They asked for ice in their whisky and Betty replied "Ice?  Dae ye think I'm running a Brothel?  Ice indeed!""

Rab Duncanson, Sunbury, Victoria, Australia:  January 14+15, 2009

Recollections

8.

Jim Gentle

Aberdeenshire, Scotland

Thank you to Jim Gentle, now living in Aberdeenshire, who wrote:

1960s

"The stories above relating to the Old Chain  Pier brought back old memories from the 1960's when we used to drink there.

I remember Betty Moss having a tape recorder playing music and a black & white television on with the sound turned down.

Beer

"The beer was pretty rubbish, but at my age what did  I know? We just liked the atmosphere.

Those were the days of pints of Heavy and pints of Light."

Betty Moss

"One story goes that when a customer complained that the Light was cloudy, Betty replied, "What do you expect for 1s 3d, thunder and lightning?"

She was a real one-off. When we were much younger she could be seen on warm summer days in a sort of bikini lounging outside her pub - not the most attractive sight in the world."

Jim Gentle, Aberdeenshire, Scotland:  November 21, 2009

Recollections

9.

David King

Trinity, Edinburgh

Thank you to David King, Secretary and Webmaster of the Granton History Group, who wrote:

Further Historical Information

"I was interested to see the latest recollections of the Old Chain Pier bar.  Although I live just across the road, I got here after Betty Moss’s days!

Further historical information can be found on these two pages of the Granton History Group web site:

Chain Pier

- Chain Pier Bar

David King, Trinity, Edinburgh:  November 22, 2009

The page in the second link above also includes a small photo of Betty Moss.

 Recollections

10.

Harry Hunter

Kirkcaldy, Fife, Scotland

Thank you to Harry Hunter who wrote:

Gallery over the Sea

"There was a wee gallery/veranda out the back of the bar which overhung the sea. You walked passed the Gents to reach it."

Gents

"The 'door' for the Gents was a curtain on a spring.  This became shorter with the passage of time and was often less than was decent.

I remember at time Betty would barge in, waving her sword and roust anyone out.  This could be a bit disconcerting, I can tell you"

Harry Hunter, Kirkcaldy, Fife, Scotland:  December 14, 2009

 Recollections

11.

Trish Lack

Haddington, East Lothian, Scotland

Thank you to Trish for writing about her experience of Betty Moss.

Trish wrote:

Betty Moss

"Here is my experience of that fine? 'lady'.

My dad was a seaman.  He was not a drinker, but he knew of betty Moss, so she intrigued me.  One night in the 1970s, I talked my husband and another couple into going to the bar, 'just to see'?

So as you can imagine, we are all, or most of us, at 20, gorgeous and slim. (Those were the days!)  We girls then, certainly were.  So in we went, lambs to the slaughter!

As we entered, all was quiet.  There was only one other person in there, a man.  Betty gave us a look, and I nearly screamed,  but we bravely went in, she asked us what we wanted.  A few orders later, we had our drinks.

The only thing was, the glasses were not clean.  I mean, I saw her shake other glasses out and wipe them with some God awful looking 'cloth'!

My Gin and bitter lemon was in a glass that looked like she had just picked it up from the street!  I really didn't want to upset her, but i really didn't want to drink from that glass!   So I didn't.  We left!

We noticed the postcards on the walls from all over the place.  She certainly was some woman!

Trish Lack, Haddington, East Lothian, Scotland:  January 29, 2010

 

Recollections

12.

Allan Dodds

Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, England

Thank you to Allan Dodds who wrote:

Betty Moss

"In the early 1960s, female undergraduate students used to be introduced by their male partners to Betty's as part of their extracurricular liberal arts education because the Old Chain Pier Bar was a legend in its own time.

At closing time, if people weren't mindful of the then strict licensing regulations, Betty would brandish her cutlass and 'skelp' any late drinkers on the 'erse' by way of encouraging them to leave the premises in a timely fashion."

Allan Dodds, Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, England:  February 17, 2010

 

Recollections

13.

Douglas Bryce

Pilton Edinburgh

Thank you to Douglas Bryce who wrote:

Jeff

"Betty had a Barman called Jeff.  One evening a pal ordered two pints and a Hamlet cigar.  After pouring and serving the beer Jeff said,

'We’ve no’ got any Hamlets.'

My pal asked, 'What cigars have you got?''

Jeff went to look again, and said 'I’ve only got  Will's Wiffs or Hamlets.'

To which my pal Tam replied  'Och, well I'll just have a Hamlet then.' "

Douglas Bryce, Pilton, Edinburgh:  March 2, 2010

Recollections

14.

Steve Aitken

Blackburn, Lancashire, England

Thank you to Steve Aitken who wrote:

Barman

"I worked at the Old Chain Pier Bar as a barman while I was a student in the 1970's.  Betty Moss was gone but was still talked about and vividly recollected! I used to have to walk on the rickety wooden platform at the back (which hung over the water) to collect the empties. If memory serves me correctly there were about two or three smallish tables for sitting at and an old wooden rail to stop people falling off."

Betty Moss

"Behind the bar there was a wooden shelf in a sort of recess that had the cutlass proudly displayed, and also two large wooden barrels.  I was told when I started there that the barrels were reputed to hold the remains of Betty's two husbands!

I never did get the chance to look inside, or even to discover if she was married, let alone twice.  It would be nice to know the truth. No doubt the barrels went up in smoke along with everything else in the fire in 2004."

Cellar

"The trap-door was also behind the bar and led to an incredibly deep cellar which you had to climb down a long rung-ladder to get to, about twenty feet or so.  It always used to fascinate me because it must have been well below the water line and yet I don't remember it being damp.

I once forgot that the door was open and headed across the bar to serve someone with an empty glass in my hand and disappeared suddenly as I dropped down the hole. Fortunately my feet hit the stepladder and my elbows stopped me going any further.

It was a great place to work for a while, and was full of real characters. The current pub is very nice, but does not have nearly as much atmosphere!"

Steve Aitken, Blackburn, Lancashire, England:  April 9, 2011

 

Edinburgh Today

Recollections

Contributors

 

 

Links to Other Pages

EdinPhoto - Home Page      Please send me an e-mail ...  with your questions, comments, suggestions or news.      At any time, you can search for a word  -  perhaps a photographer's name or a photographic topic.  The search will produce a list of pages on the EdinPhoto web site where this word appears.            At any time, you can search for a word  -  perhaps a photographer's name or a photographic topic.  The search will produce a list of pages on the EdinPhoto web site where this word appears.

Photographs and Other Images  -  These include portraits of photographers  -  photographic outings -  Princes Street views  -  Newhaven Fishwives  -  etc.  Early Photography in Edinburgh  -  Talbot, Brewster, Hill & Adamson, Early Professional Photographers in Princes Street, etc.  Professional Photographers in Edinburgh  -  1840 to 1940  -  Their names, dates of business and studio addresses.  The Photographic Society of Scotland  -  1856 to 1873  -  Lectures, Exhibitions, Outings, etc.  The History of Edinburgh Photographic Society  -  1861 to date  -  Lectures, Exhibitions, Outings, Poems, etc.  EPS Publications - EPS Handwritten Records  -  Photographic Journals  -  Trade Directories  -  Books  -  etc.  Thanks to all who have encouraged and supported me in creating the EdinPhoto web site  -  including descendants of photogrpahers  -  researchers  -  providers of photographs and other material  Background notes on the research thal led up to the creation of this site  -   together with lists of new material added to the site since its launch.  Brief comments on how this site might be used  -  Just browsing?  -  Seeking specific information?  Please add your questions, suggestions or other comments to the Guest Book.  Links to other web sites  -  Photographic Societies  -  Photographic History  -  Family History  -  etc.  Click here to find the link to the Edinburgh Photogrpahic Society web site.  Details of who owns the copyright of photographs and other mateiral on this web site.

A selection of my photographs, many from Edinburgh throughout the year.   Also photos from Scotland, London, Iceland, Italy, Hong Kong and elsewhere    Many old maps of Edinburgh (Old Town, New Town, while City), Leith and Newhaven.  Includes several old transport maps and a comparison of old maps with recent aerial photos.   Old engravings, mailly of Edinburgh scenes.  Some from the 1820s, some from the 1890s,  some others - includes many hand-coloured examples from the 1820s.   News from Edinburgh today  -  Events, Collections, Buildings and Gardens, Transport   This site includes     1. Post card portraits taken in studios in Edinburgh:    2. Post card views either takeen/published by Ediburgh photographers or views of Edinburgh, or both.y Edinburgh    Views of Edinburgh, grouped into three sections:     1. Street views:    2. Buildings:    3. Around Edinburgh   Views of transport around Edinburgh  -  Horse drawn trams and buses, cable cars, electric trams, buses and a few railway photos.  Also several maps of Edinburgh's bus and tram routes.   Summary of the updates added to this site each month since the site was launched   Frequently Asked Questions

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